Thanksgiving
with the Old Aunts
Many people have happy memories of childhood
Thanksgivings. Not me. From age eight (the first after my
family moved to Appleton, Wisconsin) to sixteen (my last before college), Thanksgiving
was at best tedious and at worst an ordeal.
The reason is simple.
Thanksgiving was never at our house. Instead, it was held at one of my old aunts’ homes, usually at
the ones who lived in Menasha, six miles away. All professional women (three teachers, one nurse) according
to their era’s options, they were bright, loving ladies who adored my mother,
their first niece. My maternal
grandmother was the oldest of five sisters (and lived in Illinois, so she
didn’t have to attend these holiday get-togethers); my ‘old aunts’ (who during
the time I speak of, were probably in their fifties) had children later. These children had the foresight to
live far enough away from their parents that their Thanksgiving presence was
not mandatory. My mother’s was,
and that meant my father, my little sister, and I were also required to attend
these dreary gatherings.
I suppose they weren’t dreary to my old aunts, to their
husbands (also middling professionals), perhaps not even to my parents. My father, as the ‘young’ man in
attendance, was always the bartender; his hefty old fashioneds kept the adult
spirits high and conversation flowing.
My mother, as the much-loved niece, was fussed over and consulted on all
matters culinary. To her shame:
she was a pretty good cook, and the old aunts definitely were not. But they fluttered around whatever
little kitchen was that year’s staging ground and produced, collectively, the
worst Thanksgiving meals ever. For
example:
A festive gelatinous ham
It was an old aunt tradition to have ham, not turkey, for
Thanksgiving. And by ham, I don’t
mean anything succulent; I mean the kind that came in a tin can with a tiny key
on the side, packed in jelly, with the consistency and color of denture paste. The aunts often tried to tart up the ham
with pineapple rounds and toothpicked maraschino cherries (left over from the old
fashioneds). All that did was add
more layers of jiggly ick to the main course.
Then there were the ‘molded salads.’ Read: jello concoctions in various degrees
of horrid. The old aunts thought
that adding mayonnaise to jello, or mixing veggies with canned fruit, elevated
the shimmying mounds to cordon bleu status. Uh, no. On
occasion, there was a fairly simple jello creation, like lime jello with pears,
that was base-line edible. But not
often.
Jello molds were
ubiquitous, and bad
The worst wiggly wonder was the omnipresent tomato
aspic. What can I say? This dish was certainly a Soviet plot
to bring the United States to its knees and to borsht. When one of the old aunts got kitchen-creative,
she added sliced boiled eggs to this abomination. Even my mother’s ‘shut up and at least try some’ demeanor
softened in the face of tomato aspic.
And by dessert time (glutinous pumpkin pie), that demeanor disappeared. My sister and I were free to leave the
card-table set up for those who couldn’t fit in the uniformly small dining
room.
And go . . . nowhere.
Although my old aunts’ houses looked different on the outside (one
Georgian stucco [!], one Tudor cottage, one stone Colonial, one wood siding
Colonial), they had virtually the same floor plans. First floor: decent-sized living room, small dining room,
small kitchen, maybe a half bath, maybe a porch of some sort. Second floor: who knew, as we weren’t allowed upstairs, but probably three
bedrooms and a bathroom. In other
words, we children – and my sister and I were always the only children in
attendance – were confined to the first floor, where there was no refuge, no
place to read a book or play. It
was almost always too cold to go outside.
So we would find a corner of the living room to huddle in while the
adults enjoyed their postprandial cigarettes, chatter, and
‘yes-dear-I-wouldn’t-mind-another-small-one’ drinks.
A holiday-sustaining Old
Fashioned
I don’t think any of the old aunts had a television. One, at least, had a basement, but it
was off-limits because it was full of that uncle’s ham radio equipment. Plus, the 50s and 60s did not have the
Thanksgiving football broadcasts of today, so watching the Packers slog it out
in the snow wouldn’t have been an option anyway, even if there had been a kid-friendly
basement rec room.
So. No turkey,
no football, no fun. As I got
older, I tried to join the adults’ conversation – both to be polite and to
stave off terminal boredom. One
year (I must have been in high school), that turned out to be a huge mistake,
and it also turned out to be the most memorable Thanksgiving with the old
aunts.
I should explain that whereas the old aunts were vocal,
opinionated, and for their time and age progressive ladies, the old uncles were
pretty taciturn. One was seriously
hard of hearing, one was always tipsy and incoherent, one never said anything,
and one was dead. During the
Thanksgiving I’m now referencing, the always-silent uncle decided to speak
up. About the nascent civil rights
movement. And his contempt for the
. . . well, you can fill in the blanks.
As a self-righteous teenager, I was not only appalled but
also felt called upon to argue with him.
Truth be told, probably to yell at him, thereby violating years’ worth
of family Thanksgiving protocol. I
remember with trembling clarity how angry I was, mostly because I believed he
was terribly wrong, somewhat because I had never really heard him express an
opinion before (and this was his opinion? really?). Also I might have been so extremely tired of these
Thanksgivings that I embraced an opportunity for drama, although it didn’t seem
that way at the time.
Tomato aspic should be
banned before heroin, plastic bags, and transfats
Whatever the causes, I was shaking with rage; a
cattle-prodded tomato aspic could not have quivered or excreted more hot
melt-down than I did. My father,
experiencing a momentary lull in bartender duties, took my arm and led me
away. We sat on the bottom of the
stair steps (the farthest away place that house offered), and he tried to calm
me down. What he said was
basically: you’re right, and you’re right to be angry. But this is not the right place to show it. Your uncle will not change his views,
and you will upset your family who loves you, most of whom don’t agree with him
anyway. When we get home, we can talk about ways you might put your convictions
to better use.
Today, I treasure the empathy to me, and to my older relatives,
my father showed. I also wonder
whether it was altogether correct.
Aren’t there some times when politeness is trumped by . . . righteous
indignation, for instance? Yet his
intervention also made me more aware of what I owed the old aunts (and old
uncles): appreciation for their
love of me and my family, appreciation of what they achieved despite the
Depression, appreciation of how they were not all, or not always, in thrall to
prevailing bigotries. Negotiating
the wiggly room between standing up for what you ‘know’ is right and backing
off because of good manners or localized realpolitik
has haunted me all my adult life.
And I still wonder if my mother was correct in telling my
sister and me to eat (or at least not complain about) the queasily undulating
footstuffs served at those Thanksgivings.
Couldn’t she have exercised some influence over the menu?